Yesterday I tried to re-edge this end of the bed with my new edger. The original edge was hard to pick out, and I didn’t seem to accomplish much without getting a fork under the weeds to pry them out and make the cut edge visible. Suddenly I thought, “Wait, this is supposed to be a no-dig bed!”
About Kathy Purdy
Kathy Purdy discovered the joys of writing in fourth grade, when she started corresponding with a former classmate. She's been writing letters ever since, first on looseleaf, then electronically, and now as weblog entries. That makes you, the blog reader, her pen pal. Her first independent (though frustrating) attempts at gardening were made in high school, though the gardening bug didn't bite hard until her mid-thirties, when she found herself mistress of a rural home on 15 acres. • USDA Hardiness Zone:4 • AHS Heat Zone: 3 • Location: rural; Southern Tier of NY • Geographic type: foothills of Appalachian Mountains • Soil Type: acid clay • Experience level: intermediate • Particular interests: colchicums, narcissus, cottage gardening, NY native plants, gardening with/for children
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I think perhaps a few of the key parts of a no dig bed were missed here
No dig beds are usually used for annual vegetables and flowers, this means the layers get quite well mixed during the growing season, and then occasionally you add an extra layer of newspaper, green hay (i.e. alfalfa) straw, compost.
Another part of a no dig bed is having a definitive edge – usually bricks or a boxing.
Yates (new zealand seed company) do a good guide on a no-dig garden, its the guide i’m using for my raised veggie patch