<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Two Troy-Bilt Tillers</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/</link>
	<description>Hardy plants for hardy souls</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 00:24:20 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Garden Tiller Reviews Guy</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-75008</link>
		<dc:creator>Garden Tiller Reviews Guy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Feb 2011 15:08:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-75008</guid>
		<description>That really sucks when you are all ready to get stuck into a job only to find there are parts missing off machinery you are going to use. It always amazes me that when a company hands out a machine to be reviewed they don´t make sure it is in working condition.

Anyway I have heard from people who owned the Troy-Bilt TB144 who suffered the same problem as you did, the machine literally broke apart under them. Having said that I know people who have owned the Troy-Bilt TB154E and have nothing but good to say about it. Even how well built it is and easy to use.

Seems like Troy-Bilt have had a few design problems with a couple of their Garden Tillers. Lets hope they can sort them out and regain their good name.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That really sucks when you are all ready to get stuck into a job only to find there are parts missing off machinery you are going to use. It always amazes me that when a company hands out a machine to be reviewed they don´t make sure it is in working condition.</p>
<p>Anyway I have heard from people who owned the Troy-Bilt TB144 who suffered the same problem as you did, the machine literally broke apart under them. Having said that I know people who have owned the Troy-Bilt TB154E and have nothing but good to say about it. Even how well built it is and easy to use.</p>
<p>Seems like Troy-Bilt have had a few design problems with a couple of their Garden Tillers. Lets hope they can sort them out and regain their good name.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-72059</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:34:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-72059</guid>
		<description>I&#039;ve tilled 500-600 gardens for other people for well over the last 20 years and would never use anything less than an 8hp Horse Troy Bilt tiller.  The smaller tillers are way too light and sometimes the wheels just sit and spin when trying to incorporate compost or other debris.  The debris just gets clogged up between the shroud and the wheels.  With the Troy Bilt Horse model, the first pass is always to break apart the soil or to till under garden debris and the second pass gives you an almost perfect manicured looking planting bed with no footprints as you walk alongside the tiller.  I&#039;ve never had a problem tilling with one hand on the second pass.  This year I plan on buying a 10hp Big Red with electric start.  My wife and I just purchased a 3 acre hobby farm with a 1/4 acre garden (130 ft x 100 ft).  So the top of the line Troy Bilt tiller will come in handy for such a large garden.  The Horse Troy Bilt tiller may seem like a bit of over kill for some of the smaller gardens, but it is well worth the price over the years for the shear ease of tilling.  Don&#039;t let the size intimidate you, it is quite easy to maneuver.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve tilled 500-600 gardens for other people for well over the last 20 years and would never use anything less than an 8hp Horse Troy Bilt tiller.  The smaller tillers are way too light and sometimes the wheels just sit and spin when trying to incorporate compost or other debris.  The debris just gets clogged up between the shroud and the wheels.  With the Troy Bilt Horse model, the first pass is always to break apart the soil or to till under garden debris and the second pass gives you an almost perfect manicured looking planting bed with no footprints as you walk alongside the tiller.  I&#8217;ve never had a problem tilling with one hand on the second pass.  This year I plan on buying a 10hp Big Red with electric start.  My wife and I just purchased a 3 acre hobby farm with a 1/4 acre garden (130 ft x 100 ft).  So the top of the line Troy Bilt tiller will come in handy for such a large garden.  The Horse Troy Bilt tiller may seem like a bit of over kill for some of the smaller gardens, but it is well worth the price over the years for the shear ease of tilling.  Don&#8217;t let the size intimidate you, it is quite easy to maneuver.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ellis Hollow</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48521</link>
		<dc:creator>Ellis Hollow</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Jul 2008 10:35:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48521</guid>
		<description>dlyn:  Heavy clay soils are more susceptible to the shearing action that could cause poor drainage due to &#039;plow-pan&#039; or &#039;tiller-pan&#039;.  But also keep in mind that with your coarser-textured soil, it&#039;s hard to keep up  organic matter levels to maintain soil structure, water retention etc.  And every time you till or plow, you incorporate air into your soil and literally burn off organic matter.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>dlyn:  Heavy clay soils are more susceptible to the shearing action that could cause poor drainage due to &#8216;plow-pan&#8217; or &#8217;tiller-pan&#8217;.  But also keep in mind that with your coarser-textured soil, it&#8217;s hard to keep up  organic matter levels to maintain soil structure, water retention etc.  And every time you till or plow, you incorporate air into your soil and literally burn off organic matter.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kathy Purdy</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48341</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathy Purdy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Jul 2008 17:37:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48341</guid>
		<description>Susan, I chronicled my decision against paid links &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yourbloghelper.com/2008/02/05/i-got-rid-of-text-link-ads/&quot; title=&quot;I got rid of Text-Link Ads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and I haven&#039;t changed my mind. But I think my contact form is broken, and that is why Graziella decided to use the comments.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Susan, I chronicled my decision against paid links <a href="http://www.yourbloghelper.com/2008/02/05/i-got-rid-of-text-link-ads/" title="I got rid of Text-Link Ads" rel="nofollow">here</a>, and I haven&#8217;t changed my mind. But I think my contact form is broken, and that is why Graziella decided to use the comments.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: susan harris</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48318</link>
		<dc:creator>susan harris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Jul 2008 12:15:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48318</guid>
		<description>Great job and ditto the thanks for those photos.  And let us know if you accept that offer of paid links.  While easy money is tempting,  paid links are against Google&#039;s written policies, so there are consequences.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great job and ditto the thanks for those photos.  And let us know if you accept that offer of paid links.  While easy money is tempting,  paid links are against Google&#8217;s written policies, so there are consequences.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: dlyn</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48274</link>
		<dc:creator>dlyn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Jul 2008 02:39:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48274</guid>
		<description>What&#039;s the prevention for creating that problem?  And what soils are most susceptible?   We use a regular plow on the veggie garden, following up with the rototiller.  We have good drainage, gravel ground.  Anything for us to worry about?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What&#8217;s the prevention for creating that problem?  And what soils are most susceptible?   We use a regular plow on the veggie garden, following up with the rototiller.  We have good drainage, gravel ground.  Anything for us to worry about?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kathy Purdy</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48271</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathy Purdy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Jul 2008 02:30:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48271</guid>
		<description>Craig, my husband said essentially the same thing, that after he tilled it a few times, it would be easy enough to do one-handed--but it sure wasn&#039;t the first time! You raise a lot of good cautions concerning tilling. I think Ted B. expressed similar concerns earlier.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Craig, my husband said essentially the same thing, that after he tilled it a few times, it would be easy enough to do one-handed&#8211;but it sure wasn&#8217;t the first time! You raise a lot of good cautions concerning tilling. I think Ted B. expressed similar concerns earlier.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ellis Hollow</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48259</link>
		<dc:creator>Ellis Hollow</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Jul 2008 00:54:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48259</guid>
		<description>Close to 30 years ago, I started a garden in an old hayfield at a camp armed with the biggest Troy-Bilt available.   In tight soil and heavy sod, the whole one-hand think is a joke.  But the only thing I had to do is change the oil and change the tiller blades after I wore them out.  (They rotated in same direction as drive wheels.)

But after a few years of cover crops and compost, it&#039;s amazing how such a heavy piece of equipment can indeed be operated literally single-handedly.  If you look closely at those promotional videos (at least the last one I saw a few years ago), what&#039;s going under with ease is a rye cover crop in a plot with good tilth.

I think folks need to be careful with tillers.  You&#039;ve got to avoid over tilling and ruining soil structure.  You can really beat the heck out of a soil and need to take measures to counteract the negative effects of tilling.  Cover crops and adding organic matter are at the top of the list.  

Overuse in some soils can also create the equivalent of a &#039;plow-pan&#039; -- a smooth compacted area below the tilled area that inhibits drainage.

As far as I know, the Troy-Bilt I used way back when was actually built in Troy.  I don&#039;t know if that&#039;s still the case or not.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Close to 30 years ago, I started a garden in an old hayfield at a camp armed with the biggest Troy-Bilt available.   In tight soil and heavy sod, the whole one-hand think is a joke.  But the only thing I had to do is change the oil and change the tiller blades after I wore them out.  (They rotated in same direction as drive wheels.)</p>
<p>But after a few years of cover crops and compost, it&#8217;s amazing how such a heavy piece of equipment can indeed be operated literally single-handedly.  If you look closely at those promotional videos (at least the last one I saw a few years ago), what&#8217;s going under with ease is a rye cover crop in a plot with good tilth.</p>
<p>I think folks need to be careful with tillers.  You&#8217;ve got to avoid over tilling and ruining soil structure.  You can really beat the heck out of a soil and need to take measures to counteract the negative effects of tilling.  Cover crops and adding organic matter are at the top of the list.  </p>
<p>Overuse in some soils can also create the equivalent of a &#8216;plow-pan&#8217; &#8212; a smooth compacted area below the tilled area that inhibits drainage.</p>
<p>As far as I know, the Troy-Bilt I used way back when was actually built in Troy.  I don&#8217;t know if that&#8217;s still the case or not.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: dlyn</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48045</link>
		<dc:creator>dlyn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 14:35:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48045</guid>
		<description>Hi Kathy - just wanted to stop in and thank you for your efforts in getting me on your site - it paid off finally and from my point of view at least, is well worth it.  In response to this post, I always wondered if Troy-Bilts would stand up to our conditions.  Not clay but rocks in abundance and no amount of picking gets rid of them.  My husband is our veggie gardener too and he uses a pull behind tiller on our ancient Club Cadet lawn tractor - and then finishes the job by hand with a garden fork as he plants.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Kathy &#8211; just wanted to stop in and thank you for your efforts in getting me on your site &#8211; it paid off finally and from my point of view at least, is well worth it.  In response to this post, I always wondered if Troy-Bilts would stand up to our conditions.  Not clay but rocks in abundance and no amount of picking gets rid of them.  My husband is our veggie gardener too and he uses a pull behind tiller on our ancient Club Cadet lawn tractor &#8211; and then finishes the job by hand with a garden fork as he plants.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Kathy Purdy</title>
		<link>http://www.coldclimategardening.com/2008/06/30/two-troy-bilt-tillers/comment-page-1/#comment-48011</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathy Purdy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 01:48:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.coldclimategardening.com/?p=920#comment-48011</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m glad you all enjoyed the review and the view. I think the camera compresses the distance and makes the far hill seem closer. But, yes, we love our valley even if it ensures we get all the late spring and early autumn frosts!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m glad you all enjoyed the review and the view. I think the camera compresses the distance and makes the far hill seem closer. But, yes, we love our valley even if it ensures we get all the late spring and early autumn frosts!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

<!-- Performance optimized by W3 Total Cache. Learn more: http://www.w3-edge.com/wordpress-plugins/

Minified using disk: basic
Page Caching using disk: enhanced
Database Caching 13/38 queries in 0.014 seconds using memcached

Served from: www.coldclimategardening.com @ 2012-02-11 13:59:50 -->
